Author: Гнедько Марина

This route captures three distinct atmospheres of southern Georgia: the pine-scented air of Borjomi, the fortress walls of Akhaltsikhe, and the rock-cut galleries of Vardzia above the Kura River. Over two days, you can follow the itinerary at a relaxed pace, see the key sights, and stop comfortably for an overnight stay.

How to go

The route conveniently starts from Tbilisi via the S1/S8 highway: head toward Borjomi, then Akhaltsikhe, and follow the Kura Valley toward Vardzia. The main loop features smooth asphalt; access roads to monasteries and viewpoints are narrower and steeper. Therefore, a crossover is the ideal vehicle for this itinerary: clearance, visibility, and comfort on long ascents and descents.

Day 1. Tbilisi → Borjomi → Akhaltsikhe

Morning in Borjomi. Visit the Central Park: stroll along the river, enjoy the mineral springs, and take the cable car to the viewpoint. In the city, the “park at the entrance — explore on foot” approach works well. If time allows, make a short detour to the Mtsvane (Green) Monastery in Chitakhevi — a quiet spot among the pines with a scenic drive.

Borjomi Central Park
https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Borjomi+Central+Park 

Borjomi Cable Car
https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Borjomi+Cable+Car 

Mtsvane (Green) Monastery, Chitakhevi
https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Green+Monastery+Chitakhevi 

Afternoon — Akhaltsikhe. Continue toward Akhaltsikhe. In the center is the Rabati Castle complex: walls, towers, museum, and courtyards with panoramic views. Visiting during daylight is recommended. On the outskirts, along the serpentine road, lies Sapara Monastery: ancient churches, city views, and peaceful quiet. Return to the city in the evening: dinner and overnight in Akhaltsikhe make an early start to Vardzia convenient.

Rabati Castle, Akhaltsikhe
https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Rabati+Castle+Akhaltsikhe 

Sapara Monastery
https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Sapara+Monastery 

Distances and timing. Tbilisi → Borjomi ~2–3 hours including a coffee stop; Borjomi → Akhaltsikhe ~1 hour. Within daylight hours, there is sufficient time for the park, cable car, Rabati, and a visit to Sapara.

Day 2. Akhaltsikhe → Vardzia → Khertvisi → Tbilisi

Morning in Vardzia. From Akhaltsikhe to the cave city takes about 1.5 hours through the Kura Valley. The complex unfolds in layers: galleries, monastic cells, a church with frescoes, rock passages, and viewpoints above the river. Tickets are sold at the entrance, and a local transfer along the upper road to the starting platform conveniently saves energy on the ascent.

Vardzia Cave Monastery
https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Vardzia+Cave+Monastery 

On the way — Khertvisi. The return route includes a stop at Khertvisi Fortress on a promontory above the confluence of rivers. The stone citadel and the wide river bend create a striking view; 20–30 minutes for photography and overview is sufficient.

Khertvisi Fortress
https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Khertvisi+Fortress 

Optional — Vanis Kvabebi. For additional rock formations, visit Vanis Kvabebi — an intimate monastic complex near Vardzia with a short access road.

Vanis Kvabebi
https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Vanis+Kvabebi 

Return. Continue toward Akhaltsikhe and merge onto the highway to Tbilisi. You can return by evening with daylight, arriving in the capital in time for dinner.

Practical notes

1. Fuel: convenient gas stations are available along the way to Borjomi, in Akhaltsikhe, and before Vardzia. Plan a reserve before entering the valley.
2. Parking: at Borjomi Park — at the entrance; at Rabati — surrounding lots; at Sapara — short serpentine to the upper area; at Vardzia — lower ticket office and transfer start.
3. Clothing and footwear: for Vardzia and Sapara, bring a windproof layer and sneakers with solid soles.
4. Season: late spring through autumn offers stable daylight; the off-season is scenic but cooler at altitude.

Where to stay

Akhaltsikhe is a convenient base: near Rabati for evening walks, or away from the center for a quieter setting with some park space. Check parking availability, early breakfast, and proximity to the road toward Vardzia.

Car for the route

RANGE ROVER VOGUE 5.0 PETROL (SUPERCHARGED) — optimal for clearance and comfort: access to monasteries, descents to viewpoints, and long serpentine stretches through the valley. Child seats, luggage solutions, and delivery to the hotel/airport at the chosen time can be arranged on request.

Final touch

This “loop” maintains a good rhythm: Borjomi forest, Rabati stone, Vardzia rock, and the Kura River. A crossover sets the pace and allows the freedom to stop wherever you want to linger. Provide your dates — we will prepare a vehicle for your itinerary and deliver it where your journey begins.

This route is one of the most beautiful mountain drives in the Caucasus. Over two days, you can see: the Jinvali Reservoir and Ananuri, switchbacks through Gudauri and the Jvari Pass, the viewpoint at the Friendship Monument, sunrise at Gergeti Trinity Church, a short trek to Gveleti Waterfalls, and a relaxed finale at the Darial Monastery.

How to drive and the best timing

From Tbilisi, head toward Mtskheta and then take the E117 (S3) highway toward Kazbegi/Stepantsminda. The direct drive from Tbilisi to Stepantsminda takes about 3–3.5 hours without stops; with pleasant breaks, it makes for a full and scenic day. The Jvari Pass is the highest point of the route (around 2,380–2,400 m), so snow and temporary restrictions are possible in winter; otherwise, it is a comfortable mountain road with long ascents and descents. Maintain a calm pace on overtaking sections, as trucks often travel tightly together near the border.

Car for the route. A crossover or SUV provides extra clearance and confidence on the switchbacks; a C/D-class sedan works in dry conditions with careful driving. For families or groups, 7-seater versions are convenient.

Day 1: Tbilisi → Ananuri → Gudauri → Stepantsminda

Leave early in the morning to catch soft light on the water and navigate the switchbacks without rush.

Jinvali Reservoir and Ananuri. The first photo stop is the viewpoints above the turquoise water. After 10–15 minutes — Ananuri Fortress: walls, towers, carved gates, and views over the distant waters. Allocate about an hour for sightseeing and photography. Transfers are short, asphalt is smooth, and parking is available near the fortress and viewpoints.

Zhinvali Reservoir Viewpoint
https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Zhinvali+Reservoir+Viewpoint 

Ananuri Fortress Complex
https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Ananuri+Fortress+Complex 

Where to have lunch. On the way to Gudauri, roadside cafés offer sizzling khachapuri and lobio; if you prefer a view, continue toward the Friendship Monument — there you can find street food and tea with scenic surroundings.

Russia–Georgia Friendship Monument (Gudauri)
https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Russia–Georgia+Friendship+Monument+Gudauri 

Friendship Monument and Jvari Pass. After a series of switchbacks, you reach the Gudauri plateau and, a few kilometers on, the viewpoint at the monument: a circular gallery on the cliff with panoramic views of the gorges. Higher up lies Jvari Pass, with wind and a sweeping line of peaks. Between them, mineral “ore” deposits resemble frozen orange waterfalls — a beautiful short stop among the travertines.

Jvari (Cross) Pass
https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Jvari+Pass+Georgia 

Travertine Mineral Springs (near Jvari Pass)
https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Jvari+Pass+Travertine+Almasiani 

Stepantsminda (Kazbegi). By evening, you arrive in the valley at the foot of Mount Kazbek. Check in and save your energy for the morning ascent to the church. Dinner consists of simple Georgian dishes at family-run cafés in the town center.

Stepantsminda (Kazbegi) center
https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Stepantsminda+Kazbegi+Georgia 

Distance and duration. In total, about 150 km of driving, with 6–8 hours of active time including stops.

Day 2. Gergeti Trinity → Gveleti → Darial Gorge → Tbilisi

Early start to visit the Gergeti Trinity Church. You can either hike the trail from the town center (1.5–2.5 hours one way, depending on pace) or take a local taxi up the steep asphalt road to the summit. At sunrise, the church hovers against the backdrop of Mount Kazbek, while the valley remains quiet. Allocate at least 2–3 hours for the round trip to avoid rushing.

Gergeti Trinity Church (Tsminda Sameba)
https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Gergeti+Trinity+Church 

To Gveleti Waterfalls. From the town center, a short drive toward the border, then continue on foot along a marked trail. The path runs through a gentle ravine with minimal elevation gain, making it comfortable even in warm weather. Plan 1.5–2 hours for the walk with stops for photos.

Gveleti Waterfall trailhead/parking
https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Gveleti+Waterfall+parking 

Darial Gorge and the Monastery. Another 10 km up the valley brings you to the monastery complex, perched on the cliffs above the Terek River. The atmosphere is calm, the views are stark and focused — a perfect finale before heading back.

Dariali Monastery Complex
https://www.google.com/maps/search/?api=1&query=Dariali+Monastery 

Return to Tbilisi. The drive back is familiar, but the light changes — you can stop by the Friendship Monument and admire the gorges in warm tones. Allow extra time for dinner along the way and you’ll be back by evening.

Distance and day duration. In total, around 170–190 km, including the early morning ascent, the trail to the Gveleti waterfalls, and the detour to Darial Gorge.

Practical tips and details.

1. Fuel is available up to Gudauri and in Stepantsminda; above the pass, options are limited — plan your refueling in advance.
2. Parking: at Ananuri and the monument — informal spots; at the church on the summit — organized area; during peak season, reaching the top is easier using a local taxi.
3. Weather at the pass changes rapidly: take a windbreaker even in summer; off-season conditions include rain and fog.
4. For the trails (Gergeti on foot, Gveleti), sneakers or trekking shoes are recommended.

Where to stay

From simple guesthouses in central Stepantsminda to chateaux or lofts with views of Kazbek. Consider parking availability and the option for an early breakfast.

Recommended vehicle class and why.

MERCEDES-BENZ GLS 450 4MATIC – confident handling on hairpin bends, ground clearance for descents to viewpoints and trails, trunk space for luggage and child seats.
PORSCHE CAYENNE – Comfort on highways, fuel efficiency, ease of parking in the city; in dry conditions — a logical choice for a couple.

Delivery and return: we’ll bring the car to your hotel in Tbilisi by your chosen early start time; for return — we’ll receive it in the city center or near the airport.

Navigation map (key points)

• Jinvali Reservoir (viewpoints)
• Ananuri Fortress
• Friendship Monument at Gudauri
• Jvari Pass
• Mineral travertines near the pass
• Stepantsminda (Kazbegi)
• Gergeti Trinity Church
• Gveleti Waterfalls (trailhead)
• Darial Monastery

Final touch

The Georgian Military Road is a journey where the road itself is the goal: the waters of Jinvali, the stone of Ananuri, the wind at the pass, and the morning light at Gergeti. The car sets the pace and gives the freedom to stop wherever you wish. Provide your dates — we’ll select a vehicle suited to your tempo and group.